SUGGESTED TUNING STAGES:  UPDATED 23-6-07

  GIVE YOUR DIESEL THE PERFORMANCE IT DESERVES!

FEATURES:

** NEW OPTIONS ** DASH MOUNTED SWITCH WITH LEDS ^more

• POWER UP FROM 111BHP TO 144/150 BHP @ 4000RPM on the Rover 75CDT. (corrected to Din 70020 / uncorrected) 

• 155 BHP @ 3500RPM, 250lbs ft torque on the 75/ZT 135 (corrected flywheel bhp) 

• 40% MORE TORQUE AT 2000RPM WITH  30% MORE AT 1500RPM

• 45-50% MORE BHP AT 4000rpm

• DESIGNED & DEVELOPED SPECIFICALLY FOR THE 75/ZT/FREELANDER TD4^

• USES REAL TIME DIGITAL SIGNAL PROCESSING 

• FLASH UPGRADEABLE ^{(for when you change your vehicle)}

• NOW WITH 10 SETTINGS  ^{(no laptop needed, just turn the knob!)}

• SELECTABLE THROTTLE SENSITIVITY  ^{(no laptop needed, just turn the knob!)}

• ON/OFF SWITCH. ^{(Instantly disables and bypasses the module.)}

• PLUGS STRAIGHT IN  ^{(No wires to cut or join)}

• TRANSFERABLE WHEN YOU CHANGE VEHICLE

• DESIGNED, DEVELOPED & MANUFACTURED IN UK BY ROVERRON PRODUCTS^TM 

^Freelander 112ps TD4 from 2001 onwards including facelift / 2006 models. Pre 2000 (L series) models need a TU1 

BENEFITS:

• GREATLY IMPROVED THROTTLE RESPONSE & EFFORTLESS PERFORMANCE

• QUICKER SAFER OVERTAKING - 50-70 IN TOP now about 7 seconds (10.5 standard)

• FASTER THROUGH THE GEARS AND BRISK AWAY FROM REST

• EASIER TOWING - LESS NEED TO CHANGE DOWN, LESS CLUTCH SLIPPING WHEN PULLING AWAY

• POTENTIAL FOR IMPROVED ECONOMY THROUGH LESS GEAR CHANGING ESPECIALLY WITH AUTO 'BOXES

• COMPATIBLE WITH AUTOMATIC GEARBOXES THANKS TO THE ADJUSTABLE THROTTLE SENSITIVITY.

• EASILY ADJUSTABLE TO SUIT DRIVING CONDITIONS & WEATHER 

• EASILY REMOVED FOR VEHICLE SERVICING / REPAIRS

• ENHANCES A SUPERB CAR WHILST MAINTAINING ALL ITS VIRTUES

• DOES NOT AFFECT THE MOT, CAUSE THE ENGINE TO CUT OUT, NOR CAUSE FAULT CODES TO BE LOGGED.

Recent feedback - the Synergy 1's (TU3) effectiveness  - from delighted owners.... 

1)    "I felt is necessary to send you this e-mail I have today fitted the kit to my Rover 75 diesel.  I cannot believe the difference in its response.  I have over the years been involved with the tuning of cars (mainly petrol) but this product is the most impressive piece of kit I have ever used.  It was a delight to fit with clear and concise instructions.  The tool which you included with the kit was also a nice touch." (I now include a long reach 5mm hex key with Mafam MF75s, for removing the air filter cover - Ron)

2) "Its like taking delivery of a new car! This time with POWER!"

"I put it onto setting 5, went down to the local dual carriageway and even before I got there you could feel the extra power surge....it's now the car it always should have been."

3) "I'm currently using the TU3 on setting 5... which seems to give some very good performance increases (like, in Auto S mode, the front wheels scrabble for grip, almost spinning, when you boot it from stationary - nothing even close to this happened before!). Performance is certainly improved, and probably somewhat better than what I was expecting..... So - the performance part is certainly impressive. Fitting an absolute doddle, and whatever you end up charging for these at retail will be a bargain...So - initial reaction is that as it now goes like 'stink' - to coin a phrase! "

4) "Amazing.. My Rover 75 CDT (1999) has 75K on the clock and was a "nice" smooth ride on the motorways - An OK driving experience - as long as you didn't want to make any sudden moves

Having fitted the MAFAM and the TU3 - Its like I've got some Nitrous Oxide in it - - The effect is phenomenal!  The car has come to life! Absolute genius - Thank you... 

The TU3 is on the 5 setting - and my MAFAM is at 75% with the EGR pipe disconnected. The power is fantastic right across the range - I can't stress enough the order of magnitude increase in performance I now have."

5) "...It makes a huge difference to the driving experience.  I can now leave it in higher gears for longer with bags of extra torque to spare, so fuel economy is improving.  On the motorway it is a pleasure to drive and the 50 -70 mph performance is staggering.  Initial pulling off is excellent bar the fact I now need to be careful not to spin the wheels (they are 235's so that shows you the power available). 
Overall I am massively pleased with this and would recommend  anybody who is umming and ahhing to get of their backsides and order
one NOW!!!"

QED!

MPG updates.

My own 75 seems more economical than usual. After refilling, I averaged 47.5 mpg over 405 miles - only 5% less than my 45 would have managed. Currently averaging over 45mpg with many short journeys and testing. Many owners are getting over 50mpg with a Synergy 2 and Pierburgh maf fitted. 

A) INTRODUCTION

I had always hoped to one day own a 75 but ironically it has been the demise of MG Rover that has enabled me to achieve this ambition due to the dramatic fall in prices.

 " Now is the time to get yourself a superb car for a bargain price" 

It was apparent even before driving my 3 1/2 year old, 90k miler for the first time, that 111bhp & 192lbs ft of torque was going to be barely adequate to propel such a fairly large and heavy vehicle. It certainly was very smooth & easy to drive in town, helped by the 'lazy' throttle response, but out on the open road, performance seemed comparable to a 1400cc petrol hatchback!

The insensitive throttle meant that the accelerator had to be stomped into the plush carpet to wake up those horses, making the mediocre performance even less accessible. It also noticed how reluctant it was to rev much beyond 3000rpm. Hardly in keeping with the car's image, as well as curtailing many overtaking opportunities. 

CAR MECHANICS MAGAZINE REVIEWS.

The Tu3 was fitted to the editors 75 and his closing comment in the November 2006 issue, was that it was well worth the asking price. In the February 2007 issue on sale mid Jan, he presents his follow up report which I'm told is very very positive.

B) DESIGN AIMS:

1.  Get the same power and torque gains as other tuning boxes at an affordable price.

2.  Improve driveability and throttle response.

3.  Boost overtaking performance & extend the useable rev range up to 4000+rpm.

4.  Minimise any affect on fuel consumption or even improve it possible.

5.  Ensure reliability is maintained.  

6.  Make it adjustable to suit driving conditions and driver preference.

7. I thought a dash mounted switch would be useful - enabling you to choose 'economy' for long motorway journeys.

I'm not interested in top speed or 0-60 times, but in 'real world' driving conditions where you need instant torque - its this that accelerates the car, not the bhp. (bhp is just torque multiplied by revs divided by 5250)

I use the 50-70mph in 5th gear time as a measure of driveability in the 1800-2500rpm range where the engine spends much of its time.  My 45 covers this in around 7 seconds, my 75 as standard, did it in 9.3* and on the TU3's minimum setting it was 7.4seconds & 6.73 on maximum. Autocar quote 10.5secs for a 116ps 75. 

This translates into instant acceleration for effortless overtaking, with no need to build up speed in advance 

of a planned overtake.

I have not set out to achieve any record breaking maximum bhp figures, because 30% more torque at 1500-3000rpm is more effective than 20bhp at 4000rpm. The module does not produce either more torque or more bhp than other tuning products and you can visit Superchips website for example, and compare their charts to mine to confirm this. Therefore you can rest assured that reliability is at no greater risk than with other tuning products.

"I see no point in spending £100s on performance upgrades and still have to change down a gear to use it!!!!"

More power requires more fuel so any tuning can affect fuel consumption if you use the extra performance.  However, when more torque is available, less gear changing is needed and fewer revs are used to make progress. You can change up earlier and down, later. In addition, the substantially greater acceleration means full power isn't used for long, again minimising the affect on fuel consumption.

"I aim for the same potential mpg, but with the extra power on hand when you want to use it - the best of both worlds!"

By not trying to squeeze every last horsepower from the engine and instead going for improved low and midrange torque, reliability should not be affected. Certainly both my 45s, over almost 100k miles have been 100% reliable, used 1/4L oil between changes & no water, started first time & never let me down. I expect the BMW engine to be as reliable. Indeed no problems at all to report over the last 5months and 6000miles.

I wanted an easy to adjust module. This means I can turn it down in icy weather or when others are driving the car or if I want maximum economy on a long journey.

More below...

BHP & Torque charts.

These show the effect of a mafam and a Tu3 compared to my 75CDT in standard form.

I used a Synergy module for these charts, but you would see the same effect with a TU3 and separate mafam.

You can see the difference just a mafam makes on torque - the turbo comes in more quickly at 1600rpm boosting torque between 1600 and 2250rpm substantially. (This is with a Pierburgh maf fitted, BMC air fitler and my intake mod which possibly contributes to the max power figure of 148.5bhp, compared to 144 with just a Tu3, Bosch maf, standard (new) air filter and no intake mod.)

Then with the TU3 section switched in as well, there is a further gain with the biggest gain being right where you need it - at 2000rpm.

This chart was sent by a ZT 131ps owner who has done a few mods as well as fit a Tu3.

He has a decat and aftermarket exhaust system, an egr bypass (see Tuning Gallery page for more details), K&N air filter, remap and the boost increased to 19psi using a GBE boost control valve (see Gallery page)

The chart shows a very respectable 172bhp and 313lbs ft of torque - almost 100lbs ft more than standard for a 131ps engine and 121lbs ft more than a 115ps  CDT.

The power is maintained to high rpm as well, producing more than the standard engines peak power until over 4400rpm.

(Without the Tu3 a remap only gives about 145bhp on this engine.)

Fuel consumption remains very sensible at about 43mpg.

NEW OPTION  DASH MOUNTABLE 3WAY SWITCH WITH LEDS

You may now specify when ordering, the new dash mounted switch module. (Can be retrofitted for a small extra charge)

The 3 position switch, with red and green leds are fitted in a tiny module that attaches to any convenient location with heavy duty velcro.  It connects to the Tu3 using a cable with a 3.5mm 2pole jack plug. The cable can be routed into the engine bay through 2 blanking plugs already fitted on the drivers side. No holes need be drilled nor wires cut or joined.

How it works:

The switch has 3 positions: 

• Up is 'normal' - this uses whichever setting you have chosen on the Tu3 module, a green led indicates this mode.

• Centre is 'off'  - giving standard factory performance & both leds are extinguished.

• Down is 'economy' - this uses a new economy setting and is indicated by a red led*.

ANOTHER EXCELLENT INNOVATION FROM ROVERRON PRODUCTS!

* economy mode is based on the current setting 2, but with 'top end' power reduced to about 135bhp

OTHER POINTS TO CONSIDER BEFORE CHOOSING A TUNING PRODUCT

For the price, NO other tuning products offers such easy adjustability and an optional  dash mountable control for your 75/ZT/FREELANDER diesel.

Some simpler tuning boxes are no use on vehicle with automatic gearboxes. You have to turn them down and then lose the 'top end power'. 

The Tu3 on the other hand has uniquely adjustable throttle response so you just choose a lower setting whilst still having the choice of 'top end' power. (By 'top end' I mean power and torque above 2500rpm!!!)

Unbelievably, some tuning boxes come with a warning that turning it up too high causes the engine to cut out - not what you want when overtaking! The TU3 has never ever done this on my CDT over 12k miles and I've not had any other owner report it doing so. (I avoided the pitfall that the others suffer from!)

Remaps & rechips aren't adjustable and some tuning boxes have to be pre-programmed for power or economy when ordered and yet others need tools or a laptop to adjust them. 

In addition, the Tu3 module is so quick to fit, it is equally easily removed for dealer servicing. Whereas remaps can be overwritten inadvertently by dealers during routine factory ecu updates.

Finally, cost! You can pay close to £500 for a plug-in tuning box that works no better than a Tu3 and offers less features. Please don't be fooled by their high prices and my low ones!

C) DEVELOPING THE TU3 MODULES. 

I already had some ideas on how to increase performance of the common rail BMW engine and I had spent most of August developing the hardware & software so I was able to test my prototypes soon after buying the car. I chose to use a single chip micro controller that has the advantage of being able to be reprogrammed in-circuit. Using maps to modify the signal in real time, enables me to tailor the fuel increase to where I want it. Thus avoiding excess smoke throughout the rev range.

It also permits several maps to be installed, and be selected by a switch to give adjustable performance to suit your driving style.

I also paid particular attention to improving the throttle response or sensitivity, resulting in about the first half of the pedal travel giving the original performance for smooth progress and the next 1/2 unleashing the extra torque when needed.

The chips used are industrial grade for use from -40 to + 85C so the unit will cope with all under bonnet conditions. Once programmed & tested, the internal fuse is blown to prevent the chip being read and then the pcb is sprayed with a protective coating.

I have tried to provide a setting to suit every owner.

From those simply wanting more full throttle performance for overtaking, to those who, like me, prefer their car to have a more lively & responsive feel as well as more performance on hand. 

At least you can choose your setting: you are not restricted as is the case with most other tuning products, to a 'one size fits all' compromise. 

D) THE TUNE-AM TU3      ***   NEW FOR 2007  ***   NOW HAS 10 SETTINGS

This unit is fully adjustable via a control knob and has 10 settings to choose from so that you can tailor the throttle sensitivity and torque to your requirements. There is also an on/off switch which completely bypasses the module.

FITTING & ADJUSTING COULD NOT BE EASIER - no laptop needed...!

The unit comes with full fitting instructions, need nothing more than an 8mm spanner (to remove the engine sound deadening cover) and connect in seconds with no wires to cut or join. 

Simply undo the three 8mm bolts that hold down the engine sound deadening cover, plug in the unit, refit the cover. THAT'S IT!

Then using the table in the TU3 instructions and shown below, choose the throttle response from the row, and power from the column and where they intersect is the switch setting. From 2007, the one TU3b fits the 75 & ZT CDT, 75 & ZT CDTi and Freelander TD4. You just choose the setting that gives the best performance without significant smoke.

For automatic gearboxes, you would use a lower throttle response setting - 1,2,3,or 4

The suggested uses are just that - you can try all the settings on all 3 vehicles but avoid those that produce smoke that is easily visible in the mirrors.

 Now enjoy your new motor!

NO OTHER COMMON RAIL TUNING MODULE GIVES YOU ALL THESE FEATURES AT ANY PRICE 

E) DYNO TESTING AND PERFORMANCE GAINS  - UPDATE 21-NOV 2005

First dyno session: 4-11-05

With unit switched off, the power was 111bhp at a lowly 3290rpm - this similar to Superchips chart (and not the 116bhp at 4000rpm that MGR claim) These findings explain why the engine doesn't really want to rev much over 3000rpm.

The torque was spot on at 191lbs ft at a high 2490rpm. Again MG-R, misleadingly quote max torque at 2000rpm, just like they did with the 45. 

With the unit on setting 3, (rev AB software) max torque was 223lbs ft @ 2170 and 115bhp at 2980. However, on arriving home, I discovered a loose ground connection on the Mafam which although connected, was turned down for the tests. I had also been concentrating on the low down and midrange torque..

Second dyno session: 21-11-05

With the unit switched off, the max torque was down 7lbs to 184lbs ft compared to last time but the bhp was the same at 111.5bhp. 

With the TU3 switched on, as you can see from the charts below, on setting 3, bhp was 141 @ 4010 and 144 @ 4000. Torque was near enough the same as on the previous test after allowing for the lower 'off' reading of this session. (I.E about 224lbs ft and I didn't test setting 7 which produces more at low rpm but is a bit too throttle sensitive for my size 9s in heavy traffic!)

We can deduce from the charts that:

A) 95% of max torque is available from about 1900 - 3500 rpm, 

B) The original maximum which peaked at 2490rpm is exceeded right from 1800 to 4200rpm.

C) There is about 45-50% more bhp produced at 4000rpm. In fact in standard form max power is at 3290rpm and it feels like 'its all over' by 3500!

CONCLUSION: +33bhp for £139. THAT'LL DO NICELY!

The turbo comes in strongly from around 1600rpm and in the lower gears particularly, the engine pulls willingly to over 4000rpm. 

4th & 5th gear acceleration is superb - better than 90% of diesels and matches the latest generation of engines (inc 2.2L ones) from Honda, GM, Vag etc. It also beats the V6 & even V8 ZTs over many 4th & top gear increments.

I would expect the 131 engine to produce 150+ bhp - IT DOES!  So does my 75CDT with a Synergy, decat etc!!

These figures were achieved in my own 75 which has done 93k miles and the service history is 'suspect' so you may well find your car performs even better. Also no two dynos read the same so use the charts as a guide. NO MAFAM WAS FITTED.

The difference in  'switched off' readings compared to the previous dyno session (a negligible 7lbs less torque this time) could be due to higher atmospheric pressure 1030 compared to 996mbar and lower air temp  7C as opposed to 14C. It might have been interesting to try a Mafam...

The timings below were done on the same stretch of road & in same direction so are valid for the purposes of comparison.

F) PRICES    SYNERGY 1 £159, SYNERGY 2 £179 inc vat + postage.

SECURE ONLINE SHOP

All are supplied with illustrated fitting instructions, 30day money back guarantee (conditions apply see below) & 2yr warranty.

DS1 dash switch module: £20 when ordered with a Synergy  (£30 retrofitted - requires return of the Tu3)

PLEASE VISIT THE SYNERGY 2 PAGE FOR DETAILS AND PRICES OF THIS UNIQUE TUNING MODULE FOR THE ROVER 75/ZT/TD4

2) INTAKE MOD 

The arrows show the effective air intake aperture -just about 1cm high by 9cm each side. Those cables must cause turbulence as well.

The rusty area is were the spray deflector was attached. I prised it off and it was refitted afterwards.

This is the engine air intake that is hidden under the bonnet slam panel. What you can't see are the two fixing bushes that protrude into the openings and the cables that run right across in front of the ducts. (LH bonnet release cable and wires to the bonnet switch and LH horn.) 

Unobstructed, the surface are is about the same as that of the air filter housing inlet, but when you allow for the fixing bushes and those cables, the area needs to be 50% larger in my view. 

Furthermore, the whole intake system was designed for an engine producing about 112bhp at under 3500rpm, so whilst modifying it may be unnecessary on a standard engine, a tuned one needs something less obstructive.

Unfortunately, there is just not enough space to fit a replacement for the whole duct, so the best I could do was to enlarge the entry.

This is the result of removing the first 40-50mm - the part that splits into 2. I bent the top and bottom with a hot air gun to provide a flared entry and filled in the gaps in the sides with silicone rubber. One of two panel fixing clips are shown and these are used to fix the duct to the slam panel as shown in the next picture. The end result is virtually indistinguishable from the original except where it matters!  I also rerouted the wiring and fixed the bonnet release cable out of the way with cable ties.

There is an adequately large opening available under the slam panel - between the underside and the top of the radiator it will be about 20cms wide by 4cms deep.  (se above)

I could have made an aluminium insert to neaten up the opening and stop warm air being drawn from inside the engine compartment via the sides but it's a job for later.

The final mod:

All the flexible corrugations have been removed using a Stanley knif. Once the engine cover is fitted, it looks like it was manufactured like this.

HOW TO DO IT.

1) Remove the engine cover

2) Remove the 2 screws holding the inlet duct to the inlet manifold and the 3 screws holding the duct to the slam panel. 

Captive nuts held in rubber bushes are used and all had seized on my 75 and were overturning. So I had to remove the grille, the spray deflector and then prise the duct down over the rubber bushes.

You will see that the actual space available for the modified duct between the undersied of the slam panel and the top of the radiator is actually quite adequate - being about 3-4cms deep by about 20cm wide.

3)Next cut off the first 2" of the duct - the part where it separates into two, so you are left with just a single wide orifice.

Then you can force the top and bottom apart, a hot air gun is useful for softening the plastic. Or make a frame from a rod or a duct of aluminium sheet to keep the opening about 30mm high. Ideally an outwardly flared or rounded edge is best, rather than just a sharp one.

You can make a neater job than I did now that we know its worth doing!

I re routed the cables running across the opening, but they could be cable tied up against the underside of the slam panel.

The modified duct then needs to be refitted with a means of attaching it to the slam panel devised.( Ideally, rubber mount it to stop noise transmission, though I didn't find this a  problem.)

Now prepare for a surprise as you hit the rev limiter in 2nd and third!

Mafams and Tune-ams may benefit from adjustment - lower setting on the mafam and higher or lower on the Tu depending upon whether you want all that extra top end power.

Update 17-05-06

This mod has now been done by dozens of owners, all of whom report improvements, ranging from improved low down torque, quicker build up of boost and improved willingness to rev.  

TIP Some owners leave the outer two mounting bushes in place and only cut off the bottom and sides.

3) BOOST INCREASE 

The photo was taken from below at the back of the engine and as you can see the waste gate linkage is adjustable, but virtually impossible to get at.  So the answer, is to fit a 'helper' spring as we are only interested in 2-3psi more boost.

This worked as can be seen in the charts below. The brown & green lines being standard with a Synergy module fitted and the red line with the spring fitted. 

With this mod, the egr valve cleaned and the intake mod below, the engine feels more free revving than it ever has and hits the rev limiter in the first two gears with ease.

4) EGR BYPASS PIPE. This is a worthwhile mod and removes the obstruction imposed by the valve mechanism in the original valve, as well as removing any possibility of it becoming clogged up. More details here:

PERFORMANCE TESTING GADGET REVIEWED. CLICK HERE FOR MORE DETAILS